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customizing the art museum pattern: adding bow welt pockets
Today we’re thrilled to welcome back Nele, who hails from Belgium. Many of you may remember her incredible tutorial on adding a scalloped yoke to the School Photo Dress. She’s also the winner of the last season of Project Run and Play! Nele generously took the time to share her method for adding bow welt pockets to the Art Museum Trousers, though she notes they can also be incorporated into the vest. It's always great to have her here with us.
Hi everyone! This is Nele, and I blog over at Spiegelstiksels. I'm excited to be guest posting here on the Oliver + S blog today to walk you through how I added these charming bow welt pockets to the Art Museum Trousers. About two and a half years ago, I experimented with this pocket design on a dress I made for my daughter. While she doesn't wear dresses much anymore, she still appreciates a touch of girlish flair in her wardrobe.
To begin, I worked with the welt pocket pattern pieces included in the standard Oliver + S pattern. All you’ll need is an additional strip of fabric. For reference, the piece I used was about 5.5 cm wide and nearly 30 cm long, and I actually had plenty left over even after using just half the length.
The first step involves creating the loops that will wrap around the welt. Fold the extra fabric strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew along the edge with a 7.5 mm seam allowance. Once turned right side out and pressed, you'll have a tube. Cut this tube in half to create two equal pieces—these will serve as the loops.
Next, follow the dart instructions in the pattern and mark where the pockets should go on your fabric. Place the loop piece in the center between these markings, ensuring it overlaps the lower invisible line but not the upper one. At this stage, the right side of the loop should be facing downward so the seam remains visible.
Pin the welt pocket to the trousers, aligning it with the placement markings. Stitch along the top and bottom lines, making sure they're parallel and of equal length.
Cut a slit through both layers of fabric between these stitched lines, forming a Y-shape near the edges. Pull the welt pocket through to the backside and press it flat. Now fold the bottom of the welt pocket upward and then fold it down again to meet the top of the opening.
On the right side of the fabric, fold the surrounding material away from the pocket and stitch the small triangular cut to secure it. Next, pull the loop piece to the backside of the fabric and adjust it to form a bow shape over the welt.
Once satisfied with the bow's appearance, pin it in place. Then, holding the lower part of the welt with one hand, fold the trouser fabric away with the other and sew the loop to the welt and seam allowances—but avoid stitching it to the trousers themselves. Trim any excess from the loop piece.
Finally, complete the pocket following the Oliver + S welt pocket tutorial instructions. Take a moment to admire your handiwork!
Repeat the process for the second pocket and finish constructing the trousers according to the pattern guidelines. I hope this guide inspires you to experiment with adding bow welt pockets to your projects. I’d love to see what you create, so please feel free to share your thoughts in the comments. Happy sewing!
P.S. If you have any questions or need further clarification on any step, don’t hesitate to reach out. Sewing is all about learning and having fun along the way!