Hair history: the story of beards, eyebrows, eyelashes, and hair

This article is taken from "Hair Story" Author: Oda Fournier · La Maiye Klaus Meyer Shanghai People's Publishing House

Guide:

The history of shaving: the beard has been a turning point in sex life

Wolf Girl: Women also have long beards? Most of the fate is miserable

Eyebrows: All eyebrows of women in the Renaissance were unplugged

Eyelash: as a means of nonverbal communication

Wig: Louis XIII wears a wig every day to trigger the trend

Red Hair: Rebellion of Women in the 1960s

The history of shaving is part of the process of human civilization. As evidenced by the stone blades used in the archaeological finds, the shave began as early as about 20,000 years ago, and the unique tradition of Judaism can be traced back to the era of prisoners of Babylon. .

In the notion of Judaism and other Eastern nationalities, the beard is the embodiment of power and a symbol of masculinity endowed by God. The Old Testament's "Buch der Knige" records: In order to insult the Jews (Israeliten), the Ammoniter who is the enemy of it, sent David King (David) Shave the beard of the knot half. In Judaism, there are still strict rituals for the modification of the beard today. According to the traditional rules of the Jewish teachers, the beard must not be trimmed with scissors, but must be burned. In the Old Testament, shaving is seen as a despicable act, because the shaved face is similar in appearance to the pagan pastor. Therefore, only the beard is allowed to be shortened and only serves as a visible sign of grief. In other cases, trimming the beard is seen as the first sign of a nervous disorder. Today, in this religious culture, a man’s beard is still the most irreparable insult to the man if he is touched by a strange woman.

Ancient Jewish society has great nomadic nature, and within its society, men must have beards. However, they did not have much time and water to regularly shorten the beard and retouch it, and in Egypt, where Pharaoh ruled, Israel had a prosperous cultural exchange with it, it was another situation. Egypt on the Nile has a fairly stable settlement, and they have abundant water resources, which makes it much easier to clean the Body regularly.

However, the beard - although only in the lower jaw and not in the hustle and bustle - also symbolizes power in Egypt, so only the pharaoh has the right to have a beard. If there is not enough this kind of beard on Pharaoh's face, you can also use fake Hu to stick to the lower jaw. Even the great female pharaohs have this facial decoration to show their legal dominance. The beard symbolizes the privilege of God and the ruler, and the man who does not shave is never allowed to approach the ruler. This commandment is described in detail in the Bible's story about Joseph. Joseph was released from prison and he had to shave his face before being taken to Pharaoh.

This kind of body shaving fashion in Egypt was widely accepted by the highly developed Greek culture, and the Romans accepted this fashion with reservation. Only the oldest and most respected Olympus gods allowed the beards, such as Zeus, Hades and Poseidon, to be the gods of the Greek mythology and the underworld. God, sea god.

In later Greek mythology, beards became the support of wisdom and life. The swearer puts his hand on the knee of the beard or the statue of Zeus to prove the seriousness and authenticity of what he said. A similar swearing pattern continued until the middle ages of the Middle Ages, now generally referring to the mid-11th century to the end of the 12th century.

The death beliefs of the Greeks also give the beard a unique function. Because the beard is the embodiment of life, Charon, the leader of the sinister government, asks for their beards as a reward when transporting the dead men. Shaving the dead means stopping the dead from entering the world of death and entering an eternal journey. It was not until later that people put a coin in the mouth of the deceased as a way to pay the toll to the government.

The belief that the beard has vitality continues into the middle ages of the Middle Ages and enters historical legends. It is said that the deified God Frederick Barbarossa Barbarossa: the nickname of King Prussia Frederick I, means "red beard".

In ancient times, the hustle and bustle not only symbolized the necessity of respectful communication. Young men are only formally matured after the first shaving, and become a respected member of the patriarchal order. In the gender structure of ancient Athens, the sexual relationship between an older adult man and a young man who has not yet shaved is allowed, even what the society expects; once the official shaving, this sexual relationship will be I think it’s mean. The beard separates the generation from the generation and becomes a decisive turning point in sexual life. Young men enter the active subject position from passive objects. Not only today's Arab-North African world has a similar pattern of cultural behavior, but it can also be found in modern Brazilian society. In these places, gay men over 30 years old have been used to keep their beards, so that you can avoid some of the embarrassing problems of citizenship. The beard is a symbol of masculinity and marriage.

In the ancient Greek city-states, except for the elderly men who can store beards, basically only the warriors have the privilege of storing beards, which is the opposite of the modern army. The physical characteristics of modern soldiers are: short hair, no beard. In this regard, Alexander the Great had long discovered the practicality of shaving, and therefore required soldiers to shave. He is worried that the beard may affect the battle in battle.

In ancient wars, there was often a one-on-one sword fight. So this often happens: the fighters hold their opponent's long beard and limit their actions, thus puncturing a decisive sword. Ancient Greek soldiers who did not leave a beard became role models for the Roman army. Ancient Greek soldiers did not leave beards, which is quite different from most of their opponents in ancient world culture.

One of the most contemptuous and fearful enemies of the Barbarians and the Lombard Roman civilization is the Germans in the north. Because of the unkempt beard, the Roman writers compared them to animals. From the etymological point of view, the concept of "Barbaren" can be traced back to the Latin word for "Bart" (the beard), which is the "Langobarden" that became the customary name of the Germanic tribe as abusive words. The Lombard) is exactly the same. These “Langbrtigen” have established a strong kingdom in northern Italy, and today they are still able to win their tracks from the regional name “Lombardei” (Lombardy).

The revival of the beard in Rome was carried out with the authority of the military emperor Hadrian. Since then, many emperors have regained their mustaches, which can be proved by preserved statues and coins, but the ancient priests have never left their beards.

Wolf Girl: Women also have long beards? Most of the fate is miserable

The more common female beards are the velvet hair of the upper lip of a woman of all ethnic groups in the Mediterranean region or the hormonal balance of an elderly woman. The woman's genital warts caused by genetic mutations are a condition, known as "Hypertrichosis", which is unfairly referred to as "Wolwolffrauen" (Wolfsfrauen). Women with long beards always attract the attention of people around them, so they can be found not only in the myths and legends of various nationalities, but also in the history of medical history and daily life. In medieval Europe, Adam von Bremen (11th century) first made a monument to the image of a woman with a long beard in literary form. He described a legendary country between Finland and Estonia, in which a woman with a long beard and a child with a dog's head live. They don't talk, they are jealous.

In ancient times, Hippokrates described in his article a woman who had a beard after menopause. Although he did not understand the concept of hormones at the time, he had linked the hormonal changes of women to the possibility of long beards. It is a medical fact that women become pubic after menopause, and women whose ovaries are removed will experience the same fate. However, according to doctors' arguments at the time, not only menopause was one of the causes of increased body hair, but they also speculated that excessive abstinence was also a cause of long beard. Of course, here it means that the face grows sporadically. As for girls and women who have grown up, they speculate that there may be other reasons. They first thought that this was God's punishment for the wrong behavior of the mother during conception. People at that time believed that if a woman was lasciviously dissatisfied with her husband's long beard, she might have such negative consequences in the child. The basis of this punishment theory is that the wolf's brothers and sisters are very healthy, and the wolf female children do not always have this defect. French court surgeon Ambrosise Paré (1509–1590) has done a serious study of this phenomenon, and he described the cause in a similar way (but his views are not With the meaning of punishment): "At the time of conception, her mother had watched violently at the portrait of the Holy Baptist John in the fur cloak hanging on the bed."

Only a handful of these unfortunate children have survived, and most of them have died because of lack of care, and they rarely live to adolescents or adults. The parents of these children are ashamed of having such children, and they subjectively believe that these children remind them of one of their sins. By the 16th century, written proof of such children had increased, but the public’s negative attitude towards these children, known as monsters, had not changed radically. In addition to the moral aversion, during the Renaissance, there was also a kind of obscenity in the obscene good-nosed aristocrats. They saved a lot of money for these "stunners" and saved these from the prospect of profit-making in the deformity. Children from poor families who are not socially fit. In the fashion art treasures showroom, the rulers not only began collecting dead objects, but also collecting rare things, such as gnomes and bearded girls and women.

Illustration of a portrait of the daughter of Pedrus Gonsalvus,

The Vienna Museum of Art and History (German painter, around 1580), among the works of the long-bearded woman who have been preserved, the oldest is a painting, which is now preserved in the Schlo Ambras Museum, which can It dates back to the period of Rudolf II. Another painting of a similar theme is in the eccentric Habsburg ruler's Prague residence. The painting is a family with a large number of members, including the noble "barbar" father Petru. Gonzalou, he is surrounded by a long-haired wife and two sons and two daughters. The two girls were described in detail in 1543 and 1584 in the Italian naturalist Aldrovandi's "Monstrorum Historiae". The Duke of Saxony also wanted to reveal this peculiar phenomenon. After he was unable to obtain Grete Bartl himself, he was asked to draw a portrait of her in 1562. In this painting, Grete · Battelle has a thick beard.

Illustrations of Pedro and Arrigo Gonzales, from: Adero Vandy's Anecdotes (Bononiae, 1642) in modern times Among the early long-bearded women, Barbara Urster is one of the most famous. She lived in the 16th century and her beard was over the waist. A century later, Rosine Marguerite Müller made a sensation in the local area. She died decently in a nursing home in Dresden in 1732. In 1726, a length of several inches [1] German old time unit, about 2.7-3 cm. - Translator's Note [1] The beard's dancer made the Venetian eye-opener, and her performance attracted a large audience. An unknown Swedish woman didn't want to be the object of being watched, so she chose the path that many other women had traveled: women dressed as male makeup to escape. She went to the army of Charlie XII (Karl XII., 1682-1718) as a mercenary. Many years have passed and she has not exposed the true sex until she was captured in the Battle of Pultowa. Her Identity was discovered. She was taken to the Russian Tsar and since then, like a wild animal, she was kept in the animal fence for viewing. The life stories and fates of all these women in the pre-modern era could not be completely reconstructed. They often appeared suddenly in anecdotes, and then suddenly disappeared.

In the 19th century, the personal fate of such women was more fully documented. Julia Pastrana is one of the most famous women from this mobile arena and the world of treasures. Originally born in Mexico, she was of Indian descent and was brought to the UK in 1857 by a wandering entertainer who was good at doing business and disregarding shame. There she was shown to the public for the first time, after which she wandered around Europe until her death in Moscow in 1862. In order not to lose this money tree, people will carry out the anti-corrosion treatment of her body, continue to show it to the public, pay to visit, this situation continued until the beginning of the First World War. Julia Pastrana's face is full of thick hairs, with a mustache, and a mustache. In addition, according to the condition, her upper and lower jaw teeth are irregular.

With the strengthening of the authorities’ examination of pregnant women and newborn mothers, the government has set up orphanages, and the survival rate of female children has increased significantly. At the same time, wandering wandering artists pay more and more for these children with unique physical representations to their parents or abandoned infant adoption agencies, and the profits from their investments are also high. So after the enthusiasm of the 18th-century princes and the hunters, the anecdotes of the 19th century increased. In 1876, the German doctor Ecker revealed the situation of a Freiburg girl with this deformity. Most of the reports of such tragic fates come from the United Kingdom, because the country has the most vagrant artists and the country’s audience has the highest enthusiasm for this alternative.

The obscenity can't be satisfied from the stage where the wandering performances are going. They also rush into the madhouse where the public can visit. There are also many wolves who have a hard time. The wolf women who have not been rushed to the madhouse by their parents can only be used as a deviant, earning a meal in the wandering career. For them, thinking about a normal civic life is harder than going to heaven. To this day, there are still some young girls who still can't get rid of this tragic fate.

In myths and fairy tales, a woman’s beard, regardless of what she grows up, is a punishment and curse for women. In Greek legend, the terrible Gorgo has not only a long snake, but also a beard. In Germanic mythology, the dragon that can destroy everything can only be bound by a chain of steel and women's beards to prevent the world from being destroyed before the end of the day. There is a princess story in Italy that tells the princess to rush to meet the prince without officially saying goodbye to the eater monster Oger. The eater rubs her to punish her and makes her grow a beard. It seems that her appearance is terrible. The prince saw that his beloved person turned into a bearded monster, so he left without saying goodbye. Finally, the cannibal monster lifted the spell, and the princess and the prince became a genus. The theme of the following story is derived from the legend of the virgin virgins who escaped the lustful pagans. In this legend circulating throughout Europe, the most famous is the story of a holy sorrowful woman. A princess was assigned to a non-believing man by a father who believed in paganism. The princess therefore begged God to make her appearance ugly. God promised her pleading that she would grow up on the eve of the wedding. In order to punish her, the father nailed her to the cross. In this way, the holy sorrowful woman enters into the records of the saints that the people have received for God. She is mainly respected by the maids who want to get rid of the employer's harassment in Tirol, Austria, and southern Germany.

In general, a woman's beard can be disgusting or weird, so it must be covered up or removed by makeup. The first lady electric shaver was developed in 1940, 10 years later than the male electric shaver. Only the Drag Kings who transgendered to the men through the boundaries of the sexes will modify their beards and even stick their beards.

On the contrary, men's beards are symbolic of sexual ability and sexual desire. In the context of European culture, Casanova [1] refers to the swinging son who likes to mix in a woman's pile. - Translator's Note [1], Don Juan [2] is a man who loves women and loves to play with women. - Translator's Note [2] and the blue beard (Blaubart) knight [3] characters in the fairy tale, killing several of his wife. Because of its long blue beard, he later used the "blue beard" to refer to the rough, cruel and ruthless man. - Translator's Note [3] at least on the language level outlines the portrait of the erotic, never satisfied, never tired. The difference is that "Casanova" and "Don Juan" are synonymous with romantic lovers, while the blue-bearded knight reveals a sinful atmosphere, and his wonderful beard with dark blue light tempts many woman. The image of Bluebeard can be found in all European fairy tales. He has been separated from the literary image and become the representative of the rough and slutty man. This folk horror image is derived from a novel by the French writer Charles Perrault. After the first publication in 1697, the translation and rewriting of English, German and Italian quickly spread throughout Europe. In the original French text, Blue Beard is called "Barbe Bleute". He killed his countless wives and lovers and locked their widows in a room until his last wife discovered this terrible secret. Get rid of this criminal and get him the punishment he deserves.

In any case, Blue Beard is still very beautiful at least, and another legendary figure with a beard and nickname, the King of Hu, lacks this charm. As described in Grimm's fairy tale, he has no whiskers. "She especially likes to make fun of the good king who is a bit high on the upper and lower jaws. Hey, she laughed and shouted, the king's chin is like a black scorpion. Since then, the king has got the name of 鸫胡."

Eyebrows: All eyebrows of women in the Renaissance were unplugged

The external cultural image of women in the Western world includes not only the smoothness and softness of the body, but also the whiteness and symmetry of the face. The latter is often determined by fine eyebrows. The thick eyebrows are the symbol of masculinity and a symbol of cruelty and coldness. This basic law was known in ancient Rome. The ancient Roman ladies made people straighten their eyebrows, and the man's eyebrows remained as they were. If the eyebrows are modified like a woman, the eyebrows will lose the function of the body language. Since the time of the Roman Emperor, raising the eyebrows has been used as a sign of sudden interest, and Emei means not to like it. Today, British lawmakers can also express their surprise or refusal to certain proposals or speeches by “lifting their eyebrows”. During the reign of the Roman Empire and during the brilliant Renaissance, women’s eyebrows did not have to be retouched. The civilization of the court, especially the new image created for women during the Renaissance, had a direct impact on the faces of the ladies. The blond lady who has rooted the forehead hair represents the typical image of this society, and the high forehead is the standard of the lady. Similarly, the eyebrows are completely rooted out, or only the thin two curved lines are left. In order to contrast with the pale yellow hair and to define an area for the eyes, the eyebrows are dyed dark black. Because of the rise of the concept of natural treatment of the body, this fashion has once again lost its influence. Later, Queen Elizabeth I rekindled this traditional fire and made it a prairie. Although she kept her eyelashes, she made her eyebrows a thin line every day and scraped her forehead hair. She deliberately put her face into a mask to ensure that her position as an unmarried woman sitting on the throne of the king is unshakable.

Illustration Queen Elizabeth I (woodcarving, 1592) In the 17th century, the Dutch civilian class followed another custom. Portraits by Protestant businessmen show that women’s faces maintain an unadorned “naturalness”. They hate any smeared powder and make-up, which represents another natural and unforced choice that corresponds to the court world.

Eyelash: as a means of nonverbal communication

Finally, simply explore the history of eyelashes. There is no single word in the earlier German literature that can be used to represent eyelashes. Until the late Middle Ages, eyelashes still belonged to the category of "brauen", and in fact often experienced the same fashion fate as eyebrows. Sometimes eyelashes are considered to have no aesthetic effect, so they are pulled out, as shown by the portraits of a large number of women in the Renaissance; sometimes long and dense eyelashes are considered feminine and become a woman's fascination Object.

But the eyelashes are different from those of the upper part of the eye: that women always use it as a means of nonverbal communication.

In a society where women do not have a voice, women have a special way of communicating with their surroundings. In a patriarchal society, men have the privilege of talking and looking directly at each other. Since ancient times, shyness, daggers, and eye-opening have been seen as appropriate communication methods for women in the Western world. Heinrich von Morungen wrote in a court love article: "If a woman's eyes drips like a ball, or squats, and it is accompanied by a big If she laughs, she will not be able to decorate the building of virtue." When a woman interacts with a man, she wants to be "cleanly" to attract the attention of the other party. She can use the shy eyes or the lashes. Artificially lengthened eyelashes reinforce this impression of obedience without exposing the mind to the other person. The first artificial eyelashes are made from white mane, while the rat hair is another, lower cost option for making false eyelashes.

Today, the long false eyelashes are first used by the Drake Queens and OCD patients, who deliberately over-exaggerate this feature. Larry Paciotti, the most famous American demon in her autobiography, described a decisive step towards perfection: "She also taught me how to stick false eyelashes. Previously, I was cheating. There is always a problem with the eyelashes. I always apply glue to my eyes, then I sway with my eyes closed. Some of the false eyelashes stick to my fingers, some stick to my cheeks, and some stick to my eyes. Between the eyebrows, a joint eyebrow is formed, which greatly reduces my charm."

Transvestiten sticks long false eyelashes. In some performances and comics during the war, gay men always stick to long curved eyelashes. On the contrary, heterosexual men can only have short eyelashes, and they are absolutely not allowed to lick eyelashes. When you endure pain, the idiom "ohne mit der Wimper zu zucken" has become a hallmark of manhood.

Wig: Louis XIII wears a wig every day to trigger the trend

The fashion of wearing a wig every day goes back to Ludwig XIII., the ruler of the Bourbon dynasty who lost his hair in his early years, and he was ashamed to go head-on in the court. Because at that time, full hair was seen as a characteristic of men. In addition, because of male self-esteem, Louis XIII did not want to let the rumors about his male ability continue to spread, so he used the length and hip of the primary color curl to make up for this defect. At this time, the wig has not affected the fashion of the ladies, and the fashion of the ruler has more or less affected the male aristocracy in the empire in the following days. The bourgeoisie, especially the Calvinist citizens, rejected this ethos from the beginning.

The fashion of wearing wigs caused by Louis XIII was first followed by the British royal family, which was closely related to the French royal family. They also saw the bourgeois revolution that broke out in France. The Puritans in the British civic class categorically rejected the aristocratic sects in the Stuart court and designed their own hair styles, the Roundheads. Later they were united as Oliver Cromwell as loyal followers of the revolutionaries. After the restoration of the Stuart dynasty, the wig returned to the British Isles. When they chose the court of the French Sun King as a shelter, the popular wigs in French palaces became a fashion after their restoration. Louis XIV not only had a decisive influence on the fashion of the St. James, but also made the courts of the authoritarian countries of the European continent ready to follow this hairstyle. To this end, the Puritans uprising broke out in Britain and the New World. In fact, hair style never has any substantial impact on the politicians' self-performance. By 1817, all American presidents used wigs to shape their public image, even though the exaggerated hairstyle of the 17th century had been replaced by white plain curls. Ludwig XV.'s hair and his court once again led a new trend because of the loss of chickenpox. Louis XV prefers short, whistling wigs, a scene that can be seen in today's costume movies. In addition, there is a scorpion-style hairstyle that is popular only among the nobles of the British and French courts - wearing an over-exaggerated, powder-sprayed wig, just like standing on the head of a bell tower, still wearing a A small hat that balances the top.

In the late Baroque, these dudes had a high-profile hairstyle, and the hairstyles that the ladies made were very exaggerated. Due to physiological reasons, they are unable to lie comfortably or perform sudden movements. Their heads are covered with a variety of decorations: feathers, flowers, fruits, ribbons, hair nets, processed glass... Sometimes even these decorations are hung on the hair, the height of the hairstyle is even It reached the point where even ordinary doors could not enter. One can also say that Baroque-style high doors are an essential feature of this fashion. Under the hair of this authoritarian system, women must sit in a chair to sleep. In the absence of balance or the impact of this "artistic" hairstyle, it is almost impossible to make a move. Combined with the fat skirts, these women become dolls that can only move slowly.

The title of a German satirical warfare is like the Fengdang hat (around 1680). This fashion popular in the European courts continued until the French Revolution (1789), since then, Men or women keep their hair in a natural style and regain their dominant position. Only the most conservative rulers and their supporters insist on wearing wigs: Casanovas never separated from wigs even when Bohemia was in exile, until they left the world as old people of the old age. This outdated hair style also dominated the court of the Habsburg dynasty in Vienna until 1814, when Maria Fras, the last daughter of Maria Theresia, fled to Vienna for fear of Napoleon. After the death of Maria Karolina, the wig also died with the demise of the Habsburg dynasty.

The illustration court (Hogart engraving, 1758) After the ruler re-selected to stay in nature for a long time, the servants were still forced to continue wearing wigs. They are not treated as human beings at all, just a decorated animal. In the new dictatorship of the European continent, the wig represents a subordinate, representing the non-personalization of the servant. In the UK, the meaning of wigs is the opposite today. It represents the highest level of society: the nobles of the House of Lords, the justices, the barristers, and the spokesperson of the House of Commons. Wearing a wig indicates that they do not belong to themselves, but belong to the state.

The 18th century wig makers established a thriving industry and quickly refined into a manufacturer specializing in the production of men's wigs and women's wigs. This is the first time that we have a branch industry that specializes in serving women, and even occasionally provides a good job offer for women. Of course, most of the work in this industry is still available to men. The bourgeois revolution meant the wig manufacturing industry and the decline of many of Europe's large hair markets. In Central Europe, Frankfurt and Leipzig were all transit stations that were important to the hair business at the time. The lower peasants, mainly peasant women in Scandinavia and the Alps, sell their hair for the sake of subsidizing the most basic life due to poverty. In contrast, hair in Southern and Eastern Europe is cheaper and prices are lower. Incidentally, the rising demand for real hair in the international markets of Europe and the United States today makes the "Indian Temple" a fragrant one. Women in the lower classes of India dedicate their long hair to temples before they marry, and then sell them to make a profit, of which only a small portion of the profits can be returned to the devotees.

The recovery of the hairdressing industry began in the late 19th century. Over time, middle-class women are beginning to need services in this industry – let the barber shop wash their hair and then make an artistic hairstyle. The real rich woman, on the other hand, only entrusts hair care to the maids around them, so they don't have to be limited by the barber's opening hours – it takes more time to get an increasingly exaggerated hairstyle. The Austrian emperor Franz Joseph's quirky wife, Kaiserin Elisabeth (1837-1898), took at least two hours a day to sort out the long hair she had never cut since she was 16 years old. Her long-term headache is largely due to this long hair. Only by tying her hair with a rope and then fixing it with a hair net can alleviate the burden caused by the weight of the hair.

Now people care about their hair mainly with a comb and a variety of hair oils. When the bath has not yet become fashionable, most women avoid using water to wash their hair. In the 19th century, a dressing table with a large mirror was the typical style of furniture. Today, however, such a dressing table, which was previously indispensable, has become a luxury – because modern professional women simply don’t have hours to comb their hair, instead they save space and brighten the bathroom. Mirror cabinet.

Different from the situation of men and women in the modern hairdressing industry, in the 19th century, the hairdressing room was closed to the dark world, and all the men were all men. The development of the hairdressing industry was at a low tide during this period. Gradually, more and more young women are trained in this industry, even though this industry, like most other industries, used to be a man. Until the industrialization period, only men were allowed to engage in the sewing industry. In contrast, the characteristics of feminization in the hairdressing industry during this period of industry training are extremely obvious. Some barbers' wives have been used as free assistants to serve a small number of female customers, and to provide stylish hairstyles and personalized care at the request of these female customers. This has caused a change in the business structure. Since the advent of double-sided razors, the number of shaving shops has been further reduced in Europe, where technology has continued to improve, and most of the barbershops dedicated to male customers have gone bankrupt. Instead, male barbers have done hairstyles for female customers. . Today, there are only barbershops in the United States that insist on not serving female customers.

Red Hair: Rebellion of Women in the 1960s

The originator of the feminine fashion, popular in the 1960s, is unclear, and this may always be a mystery in the “majority alliance” that unites women’s movements. This alliance established a collective "resistance aesthetics", resisting the repressive bourgeois feminization of the spirit of the times, and resisting the male superiority. Along with hair dyeing, it is a short hair with a rebellious spirit that at the time marked a resistance to the standards of bourgeois women such as long hair, Curly hair, and long hair, especially blond hair. At the same time, short-haired feminists accepted the tradition of the 1920s – a short red hair that looks feminine compared to the new fashion. The aesthetic concept of this female subculture in the 1960s was an anti-proposition of physical ideology, which completely linked women with beauty products and non-authenticity.妇女抗议按照男性的意愿而塑造的女性的“非自然身体”，她们不仅反抗对妇女的“社会化剥削”，更主要的是还反抗对待女性气质的方式。女性身体不应该再受到用过氧化氢或者其他药剂制成的化学棒的毒害，女权主义者要求不再受理发师的随意摆布，而是自己来设计自己的风格。妇女将自己的头发染成红色，是这一反叛时代的女性在化妆方面所做的不多的让步之一。就像19世纪和20世纪之交时，以埃米琳·潘克赫斯特（Emmeline Pankhurst）为首的众多英伦妇女争取自己的权利那样，20世纪60年代的妇女多数使用从散沫花叶中提炼的天然红色染料来替代大公司生产的工业制成品。

在此期间，一些大的生产厂商也通过生产线来生产这种染料并进行销售，那些妇女用来反抗男权资本主义的工具最终还是来自于资本主义的生产。顺便提一下，这种染料的第一个包装出现在德国市场时是以一个裸胸妇女的标志出现的。通过这种“性别歧视”来刺激人的购买欲望，在任何时候都是违背传统伦理道德的。不过当时对这种广告形式的大量批判不是来自争取妇女权利的女性，而是来自那些天主教会和德国家庭妇女联合会。

历史上的一件事情今天看起来的确很滑稽：在19世纪末期作为自由运动而反对生活制服化的妇女运动，却在几十年后自己设计了一种“制服”，其目的就是为了挑衅。20世纪60年代德语区的争取妇女权利的女性都穿着淡紫色的工装裤，并把头发弄成引以为豪的红色短发。她们确信会遭到两方面的拒绝：那时的妇女看起来都像桃瑞丝·德（Doris Day）或者德国的爱尔克·佐默尔（Elke Sommer）那样，染金发，穿紧身裙，反正肯定不穿裤子；而极端教权主义分子则首先嘲笑她们将淡紫色误用做世俗目的。在传统上，淡紫色是一种代表主教、复活节和贞节的颜色，而贞节恰恰是妇女用来反抗社会及性别压迫的工具，是她们绝对拒绝的东西。如果说对女权主义的批评者而言，使用淡紫色本身就已经近乎离经叛道，不管怎么说都是一种对神的不敬，那么在市民眼中，把头发染成红色则被认为是一种基本的政治态度及叛逆的信号，这是无需赘言就很明了的。“（男）人们”理解这种信号，尽管关于头发染色或着色的颠覆性讨论几乎从未跟男人扯上什么关系。一直到几年前——撇开那些少数的篷克（Punks）一族之外——红色染发剂的制造商根本就没有把男人当做他们的目标顾客。至少按照广告的说法，红色染发剂在很长时间里是专门为女士生产的。2001年在欧莱雅的广告宣传片中第一次出现了男人成为红色染发剂购买者的小片段。以往被认为腼腆的红发男子在今天的性别关系中成功地获得了吸引力，诸如鲍里斯·贝克尔（Boris Becker）一样的染红发的成功男士使得红色作为男子的发色也同样可以出现在上流社会。以前的小丑如罗纳德·麦克唐纳（Ronald McDonald）等就是红头发，却没有成为男士心中的偶像。

然而，红头发并非只是个性解放以及与此相关联的对社会的反叛标志。红头发绝非在所有文化中始终给人以反面的联想。在我们的文化圈里，人们也在背后对那些红发飘飘的女郎评头论足，认为她们充满激情，性欲旺盛。在奥斯曼帝国（das Osmanische Reich），红发女郎甚至比金发女郎更受欢迎，在奴隶市场上，她们的卖价很高。这些遭受诱拐被贩卖的红发女孩大多来自高加索的移民聚居区，她们中有格鲁吉亚人、亚美尼亚人和波斯人。值得注意的是，地中海东部地区的犹太民族也有许多红发居民。俄罗斯的反犹太主义者在他们的宣传中一直把犹太人蔑称为红发人，因此，红发在前苏联也被打上了烙印，普遍受到歧视，甚至在前苏联时期未曾受到反犹太主义浪潮波及的土库曼民族中，红发也同样受到歧视。犹太人作家约瑟夫·罗特（Joseph Roth）在他的长篇小说《塔拉巴斯》（Tarabas）中为这种今天已经不再流行的俄罗斯红发犹太人形象树立了纪念碑。

虽然在俄罗斯文学中存在着反犹太主义的偏见，但在其长篇小说、剧本、短篇小说中仍然出现了大量的红发角色——在其他任何一个民族的文学中都没有出现过如此之多——尽管“Russe”(俄罗斯人)这个词的前身“rus”的本义原本是“金色的”（blond）。且不说在契诃夫（Tschechow）和陀思妥耶夫斯基（Dostojewski）的作品中，几乎所有的文学形象都是火红的头发，就连后者所描写的母牛也几乎全是红色的毛皮。