The retail industry at the two-way intersection: how will the veteran recruits make a move?

No matter how much power the capital has in the back, how much support the platform provides, even if there are enough professionals to join, and can seize the situation to carry out a variety of publicity and marketing, commercial brands or designer brands will eventually pass The product meets the customer at the retail terminal and accepts their inspection.

Therefore, when it comes to the new order of the fashion industry, the changes that are taking place at the retail end are definitely a topic that cannot be circumvented. This is also why, the interface news X Shitang Showroom Shanghai "New Order New Order" fashion industry summit forum will be the last topic of discussion as "new retail."

Department store to be a shop?

For a long time in the past, department stores were the most important retail channel for customers to buy fashion products. Then with more independent stores and shopping centers and online channels, department stores are no longer the only choice for consumers – even It can be said that on the global scale, traditional department stores have come to the forefront.

"We feel that we rely on policy advantages and trend advantages. We have done a relatively easy job in the past few decades. We will do a good job in platform and build a trading platform for both parties. But the impact of the market in the past few years has made us I can't eat this way.” Liu Diyue, general manager of Tianhong Department Store's self-operated business unit and founder of the Rain&Co project, also acknowledged this as a traditional department store practitioner.

Liu Weiyue is now simply said to be a practitioner of the traditional department store industry, which may not be accurate. In fact, as the forum host, the interface journalist Shao Hui borrowed the opportunity to introduce Liu Diyue's new identity when he introduced the topic of “new retail” – Liu Diyue's current self-employed business department and the Rain&Co project promoted by the business unit. It is an attempt made by Tianhong Department Store during the transformation and upgrading.

“We (Rain&Co) is positioned as a multi-brand collection store that buys handmade products,” she said. “We also hope to build a platform for Chinese designers (brands) and give them a broader stage, no longer a single support. A certain buyer's shop. Because the (buy shop) has a limited width and limited depth, but like our platform in the country, there are 70, the department stores that are suitable for the growth of these designer brands may not be less than Twenty or thirty. Our logic is to recreate a small platform (Rain&Co brand collection store) on the platform (traditional department store)."

From the perspective of profitability, compared with the traditional model of signing a lease contract with the brand to achieve cooperation, the department store adopts the idea of ​​buying a buyer, carries out direct product mining, and even incubates its own brand when the time is ripe, which can realize profit to a large extent. Increased efficiency. Although this kind of western boutique department store is already a standard operating mode, it has become a new opportunity to reverse the market law in China.

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Designer brand is the fragrance of the store transformation period?

In this way, working with designer brands is a good choice for Rainbow. On the one hand, compared to brands that have been accustomed to traditional cooperation with traditional department stores and shopping malls – most of them have sufficient financial strength and supply chain maturity to support special shops, limited supply and difficult to afford stores. The independent designer brand of rent is more suitable and more acceptable for the purchase model, so it is more likely to cooperate with Texhong.

On the other hand, the independent designer brand has also given the old department store like Texhong a new customer base and a new look.

“The main logic behind the consumption upgrade is that people’s demand for spirit and personality is more and more obvious than before. At this time, the brands and products that our traditional department stores originally cooperated with cannot meet the needs of customers to upgrade, so we have two Walking on the legs, one is through our own intervention, and the other is through our introduction of good goods. In fact, we have not stopped in the two paths. Tianhong has almost 8 million VIP data in China, and there must be Some people are looking forward to the upgrade of Tianhong, and he may have gone even ahead of us. So I think what we have to do is to upgrade the products of this kind of buyer's collection shop made by ourselves. To the needs of this part of the customer, at least to be more realistic, can not let them lose first, because this part of the market share everyone is robbing." Liu Diyue added.

However, as mentioned in the “New Capital” special forum, not all designers are ready to commercialize the brand. And even with a detailed business plan, designers who want to turn their work into merchandise and thus collaborate with retail terminals still have a long way to go.

“(Designer) will finally find that design is really the smallest part to be achieved after the brand is established,” said Wang Chuqiao, another guest of the forum and director of the MDC Marisfrolg Design Collective project.

Is buying a store with incubator function a new trend in the physical retail industry?

Similar to Liu Diyue, Wang Chuqiao also promotes a transformation. The MDC Marisfrolg Design Collective currently operated by Wang Chuqiao is actually an independent designer cooperation project of the domestic clothing brand Masfil.

Most of the time, this project mainly refers to the use of funds and channel advantages to open a special MDC store, to increase the income source of the company, but also to expand the main brand of consumers through the reputation of the independent designer. . This is also the general trend in the context of consumption upgrading.

But when it comes to MDC's ultimate goal, Marsfeld wants to use this project to find the right independent designer as the investment target. This is not new in these two years. Many traditional Chinese brands that have developed to a certain scale by relying on the advantages of supply chain and channel have many precedents for investment designers and even net red.

In these processes, Wang Chuqiao will lead Masfil to provide cooperation designers with assistance in product development (including fabrics, process selection, etc.), supply chain cooperation, and channel promotion. Designers Qiu Yi, Zhang Na, etc. are already designers who have cooperated with MDC.

“I think designers really need people to help, don’t exclude people from traditional commercial brands. I find that sometimes people talk about this instinct and rejection, I can understand this. But they (traditional brands) actually There are really a lot of things that haven't been used by everyone, they can be more valuable. Many brand companies will spend a lot of energy on the management and strategy of the product structure, will rectify a lot of details, and then convey it to the direct area very carefully. In each department, these account for 80% of the successful sales of goods.” In Wang Chuqiao's view, designers can take advantage of the commercial advantages of traditional brands with transformational needs to make their brand commercialization process more effective.

Cai Chongda, a literary entrepreneur who transformed fashion entrepreneurs, also worked on a similar designer “help” in his “three-dimensional magazine” Magmode designer brand collection store. In previous media reports, some people called the famous incubator of the designer brand, and Cai Chongda himself said that the "booster" may be more appropriate. He emphasized that the "helping objects" of the famous church were carefully screened.

"We don't have many designers now, but every designer will accompany him from merchandising to fabrics, to layouts, to channels, to the market. Every action will accompany him to find his best place and the most right. "Crowd," said Cai Chongda. "We especially care about the fact that these designers are really talented. He really has qualities. He can really touch a class of people. We will accompany the designers to find people who will like him. ."

For example, he said that when helping designer brand Mattitude develop products, the famous team collected 17,000 pieces of fabric for designer Marsha Ma as an alternative. He also took the example of the brand Arc he was wearing on the forum day, saying that the relatively narrow profile of the brand would be more suitable for the southern region. This is not only the judgment made from common sense, but also the actual situation based on the famous temples in Chengdu, Nanning, and Beijing.

The best era of physical retailing?

Whether it's MDC or a famous one, the two are nothing more than using the resources on hand to help independent designer brands, increase sales, and reap retail rewards and return on investment in the rise of these brands. However, in Liu Diyue's view, the model of MDC and Mingtang may be more suitable for the relatively advanced designer brands in the development stage. What Tianhong and Rain&Co can do is to provide a simple sales platform for the brand.

"Because our supply chain capabilities can only be here, so there is definitely a difference with them. The designer brands we choose will still be tested by the market for two seasons. The designer must have a certain basic business brand operation. Quality," Liu Diyue said.

From this perspective, the three platforms represent three development paths that are independent of each other. Whether it is from designer resources or target customers, the degree of direct competition is not high. This also made Liu Diyue send out the feeling that "this is a very good era", because in her view, rather than through the transformation of old players and new models, to raise the threshold of the industry, to compete for the card position, now the state of the flower The expansion of the entire industry landscape will be more beneficial to enterprises.

This kind of idea is easier to understand in the context of greater competition - for the physical retail industry, the impact of online retail is really a matter of concern.

However, just as Ma Yun, who publicly proposed the concept of “new retail”, has repeatedly stressed the need to eliminate the gap between online and offline retail formats, the three guests of the forum also expressed their plans for an omni-channel strategy.

From the perspective of Tianhong Department Store, Liu Diyue said that the complete online and offline retail closed loop will make the customer experience better.

Wang Chuqiao revealed that in June this year, MDC will share VIP customer data online with various brands of Maxpar, which will enable MDC to harvest more new customers. At present, 20% of MDC store sales are from VIP delivery between brands, 80% are new customers, and ages 25 to 38, "unexpected age."

As for Cai Chongda, his statement is slightly mysterious.

"You will find that the best-selling clothes on the Internet are luxury goods, and the other ones are the same ones. They are all standard items. The main basic point of the designer's brand selling is the special quality. The trait is non-standard. So how do you overcome and break through the original problems in this channel, we have done a lot of thinking. I think it may not be time to announce how we try, maybe within six months, we will give you how we can do it. ."

Editor in charge: Yang Bo