What are people remembering in Milan Menswear Week 2015?

Bennett Jan 27th, after Ermenegildo Zegna's menswear show on Saturday, Stefano Pilati, the creative director of the brand, said in the background that the design of the autumn 2015 series When he was in men's clothing, his mind was always thinking of "functionality." However, the most practical thing that Pilates has created is not to add a zipper to the elbows of the coat, but to bring us an unparalleled aesthetic.

What he has always insisted on, is once again perfectly presented on the show floor. If you split up the countless design details of his show, you will have to be impressed. For example, a total of 25 kinds of tweeds from the stocks of Harris Tweed Authority, the top British hand-wool brand and Scottish rug manufacturer, appeared in this show, reprocessing them and reshaping them. Some fabrics also use recycled plastics to do a coating treatment like a smooth donut shell.

It should not be an exaggeration to describe the emotions now covering the entire Europe with “chronic mild anxiety”. The long-term economic recession and the recent terrorist attacks in Paris seem to have logically caused designers to return to the most when designing clothes. The basic function - to protect people from harm. This is why, despite the use of advanced technology, Zegna's fabric choices and treatment methods still give people a very basic feeling. So this tailoring design looks like it's trying to wrap and protect the men's body and even hide the most vulnerable parts of the men behind the deep pleats of the trousers.

At the Zegna show floor, "functionality" is the most important for creative director Pilati.

In a sense, Zegna's show that opened for Fashion Week seems to have become a leader. With the subsequent appearance of more shows, other designers seem to have responded similarly to this world outside the so-called “fashion circles”. It's like the "fashion system" people often say in circles.

Below, we make a brief inventory of the main designs that have appeared in Milan in the past week.

From the left, there are soft-looking Versace, Calvin Klein's shiny jacket, and John Varvatos's stretch leather pants.

Versace

In the Versace Hotel's garden, a stage with a rugged industrial style was created. Versace had a soft fashion show here. This fully shows that Versace wanted to find a shell in the unpredictable real world. Yourself. A pair of trousers with sharp tailoring on the shoulders, tight sweaters with a long skirt and jackets on tight wool leggings – in this way, Donatella Versace vividly illustrated The thinking of the Chinese thinker Lao Tzu, and this concept seems to be related to the survival of this famous brand: sometimes it is tough and strict, and sometimes gentleness is also a strength.

Calvin Klein

Few people have the optimistic and open-minded personality of Italo Zucchelli. Although he once built a set of neon red costumes, he was a man after all. But even Zucily, in the current turbulent times, he subconsciously sought the “protection” he once said in private, introducing the black jeans, the blouse like a sofa cover, and the thick leather boots. And abstract black and white leopard fashion collection. Through a tight-fitting high-rise trousers and a quasi-military short-sleeved jacket with pockets, he completely conveyed a message: "He looks ready to fight."

Neil Barrett

Not many designers have such control over raw materials and technology as Barrett did. Like the painter Robert Ryman, he often wanted to hide the complexity of his technique - the cashmere on both sides was woven with almost no weight, and the multi-functional costume blended with an outdoor coat and three-quarters of its length. A coat of crocodile and a jacket with a deep V opening at the front will not affect the shape of your pocket when you carry it. These simple shapes are based on the most basic styles. Something that looks so simple - a denim jacket and a short jacket - at first glance you can't believe it was someone's design. Then look again.

Jil Sander

The brand was created by Mr. Sandel in 1968. Rodolfo Paglialunga, the design director, often pursues a minimalism. The debut of his men's collection looks just right to the father. Respect. While paying tribute to the previous generation, it also has its own style. The belt on the jacket is slightly higher than the man's natural waistline. This is a trick that Old Zander loves to play in order to forcefully change the appearance of the clothing. The luxurious material looks a little pragmatic. Shortened by a pair of suit tops and loose trousers, critics expect it to replace thin jeans and become a common practice within a year.

DSquared

To celebrate its 20th anniversary and the 50th birthday of the brand's founder, Dean and Dan Caten, the two designers took to the stops and organized a show in the largest art district of Milan, Hangar Bicocca. Nearly half of Milan’s people were invited, and after the party was over, DJ Cassidy and Mary Jane Blige, a rapper who had come to attend the event, also came to cheer and continue to sing. U2's "ONE" and "Family Affair" songs. Saying that the show is rather boring and tricky is a bit mean, but the fattening egg head (Elmer Fudd, an animated figure) style fur Lei Feng hat, and the waist is too low, only models can wear jeans, and The large outdoor coat with wolf fur edging on the hood shows that this is indeed a big party. (Cooperative Media: Sidney Daniel Shoes Women's Shoes)

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